the cowboy way

Presenting eight ways (and eight seconds) to get in touch with your western side in Nevada.

By MATTHEW B. BROWN | May/June 2011

Technically, Cowboy Country territory spans a massive chunk of Northern Nevada, minus a skinny western strip extending north from Reno and Lake Tahoe to the Oregon border. But, let’s be honest pardner, we kin purdy dern near call the whole kit and caboodle Cowboy Country, if y’ur talkin’ Nevada.

So that’s what prompted us to cut this here swell to western culture and make a mash on our buckaroo readers. Now, the next time some dude asks, “What’s so cowboy about Nevada?,” you won’t hang fire or have to beat the devil around the stump. Instead, you’ll be game, and the asker won’t get it in the neck and will be dreadful happy with his new fine-as-cream-gravy knowledge of the Silver State.

---

 

8. “SHOOT” A GHOST TOWN

If you’re feeling a bit scooped in by this item, don’t fret, we’re working our way up to the most cowboy thing to do in Nevada. So what does snapping ghost-town photos have to do with cowboys? Where do you suppose the horse wanderers of Nevada’s past went to bend an elbow, or the ranchers of yesteryear drove their cattle and tended their stock?

Trust us, if you’ve never set foot in a ghost town like Hamilton or a vacant corral like Virgin Valley Ranch and listened to nothing but a slight breeze whistling through the sagebrush, you don’t yet have a sense of just how rough and hardscrabble these places were.

Imagine, if you can, as many as 20,000 people in the Hamilton area in the late 1800s; today, only a handful of crumbling structures remain. Some hamlets, such as Tuscarora, have cemeteries with headstones nearly as old as Nevada. It’s enough to get one humming the tune to “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.”

WHERE DO I WANDER?
Nevada is riddled with ghost towns—too many to be explored in a lifetime, and too many to list here. Refer to the September/October 2010 issue of Nevada Magazine, or search “ghost towns” at nevadamagazine.com, for more isolated suggestions. If you want some of the banks or bars to be open and upright, we suggest visiting “living ghost towns” such as Jarbidge, Paradise Valley, Pioche, Tuscarora, and Virginia City.

SHOOTIN’ POINTERS
•  Natural lighting is typically optimal at dawn or dusk.
•  Consider how to incorporate the elements (clouds and flora, for instance).
•  Try different angles (don’t just shoot straight on) and some verticals (pretend you are photographing for a magazine cover).
•  Experiment with distances; extreme close-ups can make interesting photos.

WORTH A CLICK
flickr.com/photos/nevada_magazine/collections (click on “Nevada Ghost Towns”)
flickr.com/groups/nevadaghosttowns

---

 

7. DISH UP A DUTCH-OVEN DELICACY

Long before mom and dad had their highfalutin electric oven with its fancy knobs and burners, cookin’ on the wagon trail was right done in wide-bellied, cast iron pots called Dutch ovens. While they ain’t much to gander at, they are durable and can produce a hearty dish to rival most homemade or restaurant concoctions.

This centuries-old tradition, practiced as early as the 1600s by the original colonists, has survived through generations ranging from Basques and Mormons to the post-Civil War cowboys who drove their cattle marathon distances. Following is a simple recipe and some events to start you on the path—or trail—to fetching gold at your local Dutch-oven cook-off. Photo: Jacob Kepler

TRY YOUR HAND
Black Forest Cake in a Dutch Oven
From nevadawild.blogspot.com
• 1 box Devil’s Food Cake mix and its ingredients
•  1 can cherries (whole, not in syrup), drained
• 2 tablespoons butter
•  1 cup chocolate chips
1. Mix cake according to box directions.
2. Fold in chocolate chips and cherries.
3. Melt butter in Dutch oven. Once oven is greased, pour in cake mix.
4. Follow cooking directions on cake box by placing the appropriate amount of coals over and under the Dutch oven to achieve desired temperatures.
5. Bake until knife inserted in center of cake comes out clean.
Do you have an awesome outdoor recipe? See it featured in the Friends of Nevada Wilderness “Camp Cuisine” series by submitting your recipe to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

COOK-OFFS & DEMONSTRATIONS
May 21-22
California Trail Days
Elko
elkotraildays.com
800-428-7143

Dutch Oven Society of Nevada in Las Vegas 
May 22: Breakfast at Floyd Lamb Park 
June 26: Steak Fry at Mount Charleston,
Old Mill Picnic Area
dosn.org
702-877-3301

May 28-29
Black Rock Rendezvous
Black Rock Desert
blackrockrendezvous.org
775-557-2900

Aug. 20
Dutch Oven Cook-Off
Washoe Lake State Park
parks.nv.gov/wl.htm
775-687-4319

Sept. 17
Dutch Oven Cook-Off
Cathedral Gorge State Park
parks.nv.gov/cg.htm
775-728-4460

WORTH A CLICK
chuckwagon.org
chuckwagondiner.com
cowboyshowcase.com

---

 

6. PURDY UP Y’UR WARDROBE

Elko, the unofficial cowboy capital of Nevada, is the place to start for a western shopping spree. The original home of Garcia bits and spurs, J.M. Capriola Company (pictured) on Commercial Street offers the finest in custom saddles and western wear.

Joe Capriola started the business in 1929, after learning the trade from G.S. Garcia, who arrived in Elko in 1896 and opened his Harness and Saddle Shop soon thereafter. Needless to say, J.M. Capriola is steeped in western tradition, and it shows in the labor-intensive craftsmanship that goes into its custom saddles that fetch as much as $10,000.

Only Elko can put a western spin on coffee, as evidenced by Cowboy Joe on Fifth Street. Once you get your cup o’ joe, mosey on over to the Western Folklife Center’s gift shop on Railroad Street for western doodads, then peruse the gallery’s permanent and traveling exhibits. The center also hosts concerts, readings, and workshops. Cedar Creek Clothing on Idaho Street is worth a stop for its unique rustic gear.

Of course Nevada’s stock of bits and spurs doesn’t end in Elko.

STOP ON IN
Boot Barn
bootbarn.com

1203 S. Carson St., Carson City
775-885-1481

1920 E. Idaho St., Elko
775-738-6865

7265 Las Vegas Blvd. S., Las Vegas
702-260-1888

6322 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas
702-365-5691

4250 E. Bonanza Ave., Suite 104, Las Vegas
702-437-7400

1955 S. Casino Drive, Suite 228, Laughlin
702-298-9296

3345 S. Kietzke Ln., Reno
775-825-0666

1460 W. Winnemucca Blvd., Winnemucca
775-625-2622

Claire’s Western Wear
497 6th St., Wells
775-752-2227

D Bar M Western Store
1020 E. 4th St., Reno
dbarm.com
775-329-9107

Sheplers
sheplers.com

255 E. Plumb Ln., Reno
775-322-9797

4700 W. Sahara Ave., Las Vegas
702-258-2000

5111 Boulder Hwy., Las Vegas
702-454-5266

Tips Western
185 Melarkey St., Winnemucca
tipswestern.com
800-547-8477

WORTH A CLICK
tackshops.us/nevada.htm

---

 

5. OUTDRAW THE COMPETITION

When we ponder the Old West, the image of two gunslingers staring each other down on a sun-baked dusty street, hands hovering over their holsters anticipating who will draw first, is one that unequivocally comes to mind.

Well, modern gunslingers have turned the cold-blooded challenge into sport in annual fast-draw competitions in which shooters use wax bullets. “There’s nothing that duplicates the feeling of drawing a single-action revolver out of a holster and making that clean shot,” says “Quick” Cal Eilrich, Fernley city councilman and director of the Cowboy Fast Draw Association.

SEE FOR Y’URSELF
May 14-15
Grand National Competition of the Old West
Jean
goldstrikejean.com/grandnational
800-634-1359

June 3-5
Nevada State Championship
Hosted By Sage Hill Reno Rustlers & Great Basin Gun Hawks
Reno
cowboyfastdraw.com
775-575-1802

Sept. 30-Oct. 2
Beretta’s Fastest Gun Alive CFDA World Championship
Hosted By Cowboy Fast Draw Association
Fallon
cowboyfastdraw.com
775-575-1802

---

 

4. FASHION A COWBOY POEM OR SONG

Who says the bronco-bustin’ cowboys and cowgirls of the West don’t have a soft side? Those squishy—and oftentimes comedic—personas come out in these family-friendly celebrations of western art and culture featuring lectures, music, poetry, and other educational means of exploring the West.

Having attended two National Cowboy Poetry Gatherings in Elko, I can attest that any westerner at heart should plan to partake in such a celebration at least once. Although famous in cowboy poetry circles, performers such as longtime Nevadan Waddie Mitchell are just as down to earth as the non-lyrical folks and won’t hesitate to say “howdy.” And when he does, there’s a good chance Mitchell will complement his trademark handlebar mustache with a big-ol’ country smile.

In the below video, Randy Rieman recites “Boomer Johnson” at the 2011 National Cowboy Poetry Gathering.

Below are four events where you can hone your cowboy-poetry skills.

LEARN THE ART
May 5-8
Genoa Cowboy Poetry & Music Festival
Genoa
cowboypoetrygenoa.com
775-782-8696

Aug. 19-20
Reno Cowboy Poetry & Music Gathering
Reno
renocowboypoetry.org
775-354-6093

Nov. 4-5
Rhymers Rodeer
Minden
carsonvalleyinn.com
775-782-9711

Jan. 28-Feb. 4, 2012
National Cowboy Poetry Gathering
Elko
westernfolklife.org
775-738-8677

---

 

3. BE A DUDE

The 2011 Elko Visitor’s Guide sums it up plumb right: Western-style food, entertainment, spectacular scenery, hunting, fishing, pack trips, photography, bird-watching, trail rides, and cattle drives are among the activities ranch vacations have to offer.

In the same guide, northeastern Nevada’s 71 Ranch teases our inner cowboy: “Imagine the freedom of riding your horse over 38,000 acres of privately owned ranch land, in wide-open ranges, and driving cattle from our meadows to the high-mountain pastures.”

Fittingly, Cowboy Country territory is the ranch vacation hub, but you can learn to loft a lariat in just about every corner of this fine state. Photo: Dan Dry

STAY A WHILE
71 Ranch
Deeth
71-ranch.com
866-717-7171

Badlands Wilderness Ranch
North of Wells
800-616-0670

Cottonwood Guest Ranch
O’Neil Basin, Wells
cottonwoodguestranch.com
775-752-0817

Hidden Canyon Ranch
Baker
greatbasinpark.com/hiddencanyon.htm
775-234-7172

Horse-n-Fly Ranch
Monitor Valley
horseflyranch.com
775-761-7777

Jaz Ranch
Lamoille
775-777-3277

Krenka Ranch
Hidden Lake Outfitters
775-779-2268

Old Yella Dog Ranch & Cattle Co.
Vya
oldyelladogranch.com
775-267-2930

Reds Ranch
Lamoille
helicopterskiing.com
775-753-6281

Ruby Crest Ranch
Spring Creek
elkoguideservice.com
775-744-2277

Sandy Valley Ranch
Sandy Valley
bossladyranch.com
702-255-7948

Seven Mile Canyon Ranch
Virginia City
nevadaduderanch.com
775-847-7223

Soldier Meadows Ranch & Lodge
Black Rock Desert
soldiermeadows.com
775-849-1666

Spur Cross Ranch
Golconda
800-651-4657

Tent Mountain Guest Ranch
Starr Valley
tentmountainguestranch.com
775-752-2120

---

 

2. HEAD ’EM UP, MOVE ’EM OUT

There are a handful of cattle drives available in Nevada for the rearing rustler who wants to prove his or her western mettle. Warning, a cattle drive will cost you a fair bit of dinero—$1,600 per rider for the Reno Rodeo Cattle Drive, for instance—but you won’t be able to put a price on the experience. “Not a day goes by that I don’t reflect on what an outstanding western experience the Reno Rodeo Cattle Drive is,” Barbara Nill professes on nevadamagazine.com.
Photo: Ruth Anne Kocour

PONY UP
June 12-16
Reno Rodeo Cattle Drive
Northwestern Nevada, ends in Reno
renorodeo.com
775-329-3877

June 12-18
July 10-16 (visit website for more dates)
Cottonwood Guest Ranch Horse/Cattle Drives
Northeastern Nevada, ends near Wells
cottonwoodguestranch.com
888-269-2022

Nov. 6-12
Hunewill Ranch Cattle Drive
Bridgeport, California to Smith Valley
hunewillranch.com
760-932-7710

---

 

1. TAKE IN A RODEO

Paul Zarzyski, known today for his creative, sometimes sidesplitting cowboy poetry, spent 15 years riding bareback broncs on various rodeo circuits including the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association. “There are lots of good rodeo hands in this old world and a fair number of good poets,” fellow cowboy entertainer Ian Tyson is quoted on codeofthewestentertainment.com. “To find a man who is both is as rare as a wet summer in eastern Montana. Paul Zarzyski knows the jerk of the bareback riggin’ and the surge and flow of classic narrative poetry in the Masefield tradition.”

Tyson’s words, and Zarzyski’s career path, remind us that these cowboy pastimes are not individual or selective. Rather, they weave together to form the fabric of our western culture, which is alive and well in the Silver State. Attending a Nevada rodeo is a surefire way to appreciate that culture. Photo: Dini Esplin

SADDLE UP
Apr. 30-May 1
Tournament Charro—Mexican Rodeo
Winnemucca
winnemucca.com
800-962-2638

May 12-15
Helldorado Days Rodeo
Las Vegas
elkshelldorado.com/rodeo.html
702-870-1221

May 13-15
Donnie Waters Invitational Roping Classic
Fallon
fallontourism.com
775-423-7093

May 28-30
Senior Pro Rodeo
Wells
wellsnevada.com
775-752-3540

June 1-3
National Senior Pro Rodeo
Elko
exploreelko.com
775-738-4091

June 16-19
Nevada State High School Rodeo
Elko
exploreelko.com
775-385-5374

June 16-25
Reno Rodeo
Reno
renorodeo.com
800-225-2277

July 4-9
Silver State International Rodeo
Winnemucca
ssir.us
800-962-2638

July 7-9
Silver State Stampede
Elko
silverstatestampede.com
775-397-2275

July 9-10
Rocky Mountain Professional Association Rodeo
Battle Mountain
battlemountaintourism.com
775-635-1112

July 15-16
Shakespeare Ranch Rodeo
Glenbrook
keepmemoryalive.org
702-263-9797

Aug. 4-6
Lincoln County Fair & Rodeo
Panaca
lincolncountynevada.com
877-870-3003

Aug. 5-7
Oasis Stampede & Country Fair
Fallon
fallontourism.com
775-423-5121

Aug. 11-14
Eureka County Fair & Rodeo
Eureka
eurekacounty.com
775-237-6026

Sept. 24-25
Fallon Senior Pro Rodeo
Fallon
fallontourism.com
775-867-2115

Nov. 8-12
Indian National Finals Rodeo 2011
Las Vegas
southpointeventscenter.com
702-797-8005

Dec. 1-10
National Finals Rodeo
Las Vegas
nfr-lasvegas.com
800-506-3048

March 2012
Winnemucca Ranch Hand Rodeo
Winnemucca
ranchrodeonv.com
800-962-2638

March/April 2012
River Stampede PRCA Rodeo
Laughlin
rodeolaughlin.com
800-227-5245

April 2012
Clark County Fair & Rodeo
Logandale
ccfair.com
888-876-3247

April 2012
SCA Ranch Rodeo
Spring Creek
springcreeknv.net
775-753-6295

April 2012
Xtreme Bulls
Laughlin
rodeolaughlin.com
800-227-5245